Friday, November 14, 2008

Step right up folks...

Surprise, surprise this week is a holiday. Needless to say I’m out of school for a week. In Colorado they say the sun shines 300 days per year, but in Cambodia there seem to be about 300 holidays, festivals, or celebration days per year. I think my school has had one full week of classes since starting at the beginning of October. This is the week of the Water Festival: one of the main Khmer holidays. There are boat races and all kinds of celebrations in Phnom Penh. Sadly though, I’m not allowed to travel to PP because Peace Corps rules put me under a kind of house arrest for the first three months of service. No traveling for me, except to Siem Reap. So here I am hanging out at site wondering what I should do for 8 days. I’ve already ridden every road within a 15 mile radius of my town, scrubbed the bugs off my floor that reek like the market’s fish stalls, sewn up the holes in my mosquito net, finished my third book in a week, and I even sat on a rock and looked at a tree for an hour. You’ve got to make your own fun in rural Cambodia or the boredom will kill you.

On Sunday I returned to my home around 5:00 after a long bike ride, showered, and was hanging out waiting for dinner. Suddenly someone turned on the world’s largest speakers up the road from my house. In the distance I could hear Fergie’s “my humps” in Khmer and figured someone was throwing a party for the festival. My family invited me to go to the Wat with them after dinner, and of course I accepted. It’s not very often that I’m outside past dark here. Usually the gate’s locked up by 7:00 and I’m under my mosquito net by 8:30.

Upon arriving to the Wat, I was shocked to find that a carnival had been set up complete with music and lights (quite a feat when there is no electricity to speak of). I have no clue how they got the rides to my village and assembled without me ever noticing. The Thais had to helicopter computers in to my school, but somehow the Cambodians brought in a Ferris wheel by truck. Imagine the most dilapidated circus from the 20’s and you kind of get the idea of what this carnival was like. I started looking around for the bearded lady or the man with tattoos covering his body oblivious to the fact that everywhere I walked a crowd gathered. I was looking for the freak show, while the Cambodians had already found theirs.

At first I watched the kids’ ride which was similar to ‘the swings’ at Eliche’s. You know, the ride where it spins really fast while you sit in a chair suspended by chains to a large metal frame. Well, the kids’ version had a mismatch of various plastic toys to sit on (a frog, a faded and cracked school bus, etc). There was a fan on top of the whole contraption that I presume was charging the battery that powered the lights. This was amusing and all, but the Ferris wheel loomed in the background begging for my attention.

I decided that I just had to ride it. In the back of my mind I wondered if I got hurt would the Peace Corps add “no riding sketchy Ferris wheels at Wats” to their list of rules. Let’s find out! I dragged my little host sister over there to ride with me. For 1,000 riel (25 cents) you get to ride the Ferris wheel straight out of hell for 5 minutes. The whole thing was powered by a gas engine hooked up to an old truck axel that spun a bunch of belts. No doubt it was handmade and had seen better days. I had to hunch down and crunch up my legs just to fit inside the cage. My particular cage/seat thing, lucky number 10, didn’t have a latch on the door. So there I am holding the door shut, my knuckles turning white from the death grip, and I’m coughing up a lung thanks to the smoke from the engine down below while a crowd of Cambodians gather round to watch the barong ride the Ferris wheel. At the end I jumped out thankful to be alive and thought, “Once is enough.” That wasn’t in the cards though. My students thought it was the most hilarious thing that their teacher rode on the Ferris wheel and soon they all wanted to ride with me. After a few more trips I had to quite and explain that the fish soup I ate for dinner combined with the motion was making me sick.

I then wandered over to the food area to see about buying a funnel cake and ice cream. Ha-ha, yeah right Rebecca. There were fried bananas being cooked over a small fire in the dirt…I declined. The darts were next. There was this large wooden structure set up and balloons were put in between the boards. A ‘safety net’ was strung up behind the contraption, but a lot of the kids kept putting their faces right up to the net watching the crowd throw darts. Thankfully no one lost an eye that night.

So that was the carnival experience. Sure there weren’t popcorn stands, safety ropes, or bearded ladies. But who needs those things when police with assault rifles slung over their shoulders walk around while the best internatinal dance song of all-time plays in the background…ah, the Macarena.

2 comments:

Unknown said...

Hang in there lady! Actually it sounds like you might have been on that ferris wheel! I think your cure for bordem project needs to be writing a book...you are so good at details, I can see the carnival in my head:) I miss you, and sent you a surprise the other day through post, so let me know when you get it. Even though you're on "house arrest" in the countryside can you still get your mail that is sent to the address in Phnom Penh?? Let me know:)

Amy Hayward said...

Marissa is right, you are a really great writer. You should probably write my 7 page research paper to show your versatility.